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Sporting a mini-corniche and promenades landscaped with flowerbeds, TORQUAY, the main centre of the tourist conglomeration at Torbay, comes closest to living up to the self-penned "English Riviera" sobriquet. The much-vaunted palm trees (actually New Zealand cabbage trees) and the coloured lights that festoon the harbour by night contribute to the town's unique flavour, a slightly frayed combination of the exotic and the classically English. Torquay's transformation from a fishing village began with its establishment as a fashionable haven for invalids, among them the consumptive Elizabeth Barrett Browning, who spent three years here.